I have always been a firm believer in good pan tension. I was just surfing, and found this tonight. I think this guy knows a little about canine trapping.

http://wolfernation.com/free-videos/?p=1793

thats a nice read. very good information in there. i have been experiencing with different soils and how they react on a trap this year and its interesting. for example i tried bedding in play sand. this was stupid. in theory it looked good but it drew all the water from ground and the trap was a solid brick of sand. clay works great until its wet as we all know. going to try peat moss this week. moral of this is the soils do effect the trap firing more than a novice as myself would think about.

Thanks for the read, some good facts and figures to pass along during ADC work.

Good stuff. I have learned a lot from Clint in videos and online.

He uses the largest size traps available--actually a beaver trap for coyote and bobcat trapping, and also enlarged pans to maximize the kill area of the trap.

You ever walk up on your set to see the trap thrown, just sitting in its bed? Particularly, after a rain, or a snow, and a thaw? He does a good job of explaining why that happens. You are correct PSE. Soil types do affect how your traps operate.

I carry a roll of wax paper, and pre cut steel screen wire as my trap covers. When I make dirt holes, where the cover is going to be sifted dirt, I use the wax paper. I make sure it conforms around the pan, as not to carry the extra wight of the dirt as it gets wet, or freeze/thaws. When I make scent posts where the trap is blended with the surrounding cover of grass or hay, I use the steel pan covers. The covering material won't carry as much weight as the dirt. I know Chevy places batting under the pan to solve that problem. I am not comfortable doing that, even though I know it works well. AND as you know, I work like a mad scientist to be sure my pan tensions are adjusted to at least 3 pounds or more! Just a few more days, and I'll have the coyote sets out!